The Golden Spurtle
Who would have guessed that a porridge competition could be the subject of a feature documentary – and one that is so endearing?
Image courtesy of Dogwoof Releasing.
Constantine Costi’s film is not only extremely well-made but full of unexpected features. It may well come as a surprise to many – it did to me – that such a thing as the World Porridge Making Championship exists and has done so annually since 1994. Equally unlikely is the notion that this event, which takes place in the Scottish highlands in the village of Carrbridge, would be regarded as suitable subject matter for a feature- length documentary. Yet here it is and, if the film named after that event, The Golden Spurtle, is inevitably a light piece, it is also something of a triumph. Furthermore, the tone of the piece – engaged, sympathetic, yet also fully aware that this offbeat event is idiosyncratic enough to have a comic side – means that The Golden Spurtle has something of the appeal of an Ealing comedy (I was reminded in particular of 1953’s The Titfield Thunderbolt).
Porridge is described in this film as being the epitome of Scottish food but, while the film early on stresses the locality by featuring a variety of shots of Carrbridge which capture its atmosphere, the championship held there has become widely known and draws competitors from as far afield as Africa and America. Indeed, the film’s director is Australian and the very first competitor we see here is a taco chef named Toby Wilson who will travel all the way from Sydney to participate. A lot of of those appearing in the film are encouraged to speak direct to camera and save for Toby Wilson the early stages of the film largely concentrate on locals long involved in the running of the competition held in the village hall. Prominent among them is Charlie Miller who after many years of involvement has decided that at the age of sixty it is time for him to step down as chieftain thus making this his last year in that role. But it is in keeping with the film’s approach that we should also hear from Barbara Kuwall who speaks on behalf of those important contributors the dishwashers.
Before long a written title declares that it is ‘Two Weeks to Porridge Day’ and from then on subsequent titles of that kind draw us step-by-step nearer to the day itself with the actual championship providing the film with its climax. That is a standard procedure for many documentaries about competitive events and it is useful as a means of indicating how far along in the film we are. Altogether less typical is the fact that, due to porridge being central here, some scenes need to be included to cover matters on which some viewers will require information. Thus, we witness Charlie Miller's dedicated work in making wooden spurtles and he explains that these traditional Scottish kitchen tools which are rod-like sticks in appearance are used locally in preference to standard spoons when stirring up the ingredients for porridge. The origin of Carrbridge’s event is explained and it is emphasised that one goal behind it is to dispel the reputation that has resulted from the standard of school porridge! It appears that 10% of the villagers are directly involved and many of them enjoy the sense of being regarded as characters. That is to say that they come across here as being decidedly Scottish and individual and also very ready to joke (one comic tale told in the film involves asking God if he has been overgenerous in making Scotland such a wonderful country and it has a very neat pay off).
The preparations in Carrbridge shape the film but we also get an introduction to some of the other non-local contestants in addition to Toby Wilson before they arrive for the event. Among them are Lisa Williams the reigning champion who is again attending supported by her husband Steve (we see the trophy that she won earlier which represents a spurtle but is indeed designed in gold), the health store owner Nick Barnard, a regular finalist who has great confidence in his abilities, and Ian Bishop a former world champion. The latter has become a legendary figure and is described as being as mad as a march hare but he is now eager to compete once again. The local railway man, Chris Price, and Charlie Miller's brother, Robin, also pop up along with many others including Jane Weston who is known as the raffle queen and meteorologist Lee whose firm assertion that it is not always raining in Carrbridge proves ironic on the day of the championship.
That the occasion is both a local community event and a meeting place for enthusiasts coming from distant places to compete is something that the film’s tone captures admirably. It is also a remarkably good piece of filmmaking in its own right. Simon Bruckard’s excellent music score adds to the flavour of the piece, the photography by Dimitri Zaunders is admirable and, most importantly, Costi and his editor James Alcock pace the film beautifully. They have kept it down to 75 minutes thus avoiding any sense of longueurs or repetition but most adept of all is the handling of the championship heats and final. Such material can always be relied on to provide a good climax but here the extent and timing of these scenes is judged with a rare sureness of touch. Of its nature The Golden Spurtle is a lightweight work and hardly the stuff of which masterpieces are made and it could be that on learning of its subject matter some people will question if they would want to make the effort to see this film. Nevertheless, it offers exactly the kind of pleasure that we can do with in today's world and I would anticipate that everyone who sees this film will feel happier for having done so.
MANSEL STIMPSON
Featuring Charlie Miller, Toby Wilson, Ian Bishop, Nick Barnard, Lisa Williams, Adam Kiani, Robin Miller, Chris Price, Steve Williams, Jane Weston, Barbara Kuwall, Roger Reed, Neil Mugg.
Dir Constantine Costi, Pro Rebecca Lamond and John Archer, Screenplay Constantine Costi, Ph Dimitri Zaunders, Ed James Alcock, Music Simon Bruckard.
Hopscotch Films/Hytra Films/Umbrella Entertainment/Screen Australia-Dogwoof Releasing.
75 mins. Australia/UK. 2025. UK Rel: 12 September 2025. Cert. PG.
